Categories
Saree

Stylish and Contemporary Saree Blouse

Hello lovely ladies (and dudes, if you are here too ☺️)

I’m back again with a new exciting blouse tutorial, which YOU can make and flaunt with your favourite Saree. You can even wear it with a pair of jeans or a skirt ! Well that’s how versatile out Saree blouses are 🤷🏻‍♀️

Okay let’s dive right into it !

Tools required:

Rulers – Straight, L, Hip curve and French curve.
Basic Blocks – Front and back.
• Pattern making paper.
• Sharp pencil and eraser.

As always we begin with tracing the basic bodice.

How to make Basic Bodice – The easy yet effective method

Step 1.

• Trace the basic bodice for front body.
• Close below the bust dart and open from centre front by using shifting method.

Stylish and contemporary Saree blouse

• A to B mark shoulder length very close to the neck corner.
• Connect B to the under arm point in a smooth curve.
• Mark a neck depth at the centre front at D and join a with D in a smooth curve.
• Raise a point from bottom centre by 1 inch at E.

Stylish and contemporary Saree blouse

• Extent the pattern for the front knot tying and back tying.

Stylish and contemporary Saree blouse

Back Pattern

Back pattern is fairly simple, just trace the basic bodice and mark straight linefrom the under arm to the centre back.

Stylish and contemporary Saree blouse

Your patterns for a very stylish blouse are ready !

Here is the link to my free sewing pattern and resource

https://dsewclubnewsletter.ck.page/0408ae5c8c

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then here is the link to my online dress making course –

www.courses.dsewclub.com

And if you are feeling generous do follow me on instagram too

https://instagram.com/dsewclub

Categories
Dress Dress Making Saree

Make a Cocktail Dress out of a Saree

“Closet full of fabulous Sarees and not an occasion to wear!” … wondered every Indian women at least once in these last 2 years.

But I’m on a mission to give purpose to your beautiful Sarees, one Saree at a time. And you can be a hero just by doing that too, I’ll tell you how 😊

Not all hero wear capes, some wear Sarees…

Illustration by @artby_gt

I recently had a beautiful Cutomer wanting to reinvent her Saree that she wore many times and created fond memories through it. A piece of clothing such as this is too precious to part with, you would agree.

She had a design in mind, she needed a dress that maintained the flow of this beautiful emerald green chiffon drape.

The result was pleasing not just for her but for me as I knew a gorgeous Saree has been rescued and given a new meaning and purpose.

Lets see how it was done ✅

Tools required –

  • Measuring tape 📏
  • Pair of scissors ✂️
  • Chalk
  • Pins 📍
  • Lining fabric ( you could use the remain Saree material)
  • Sewing machine ( if you don’t have one, you could use back stitch

Steps

  1. Fold your Saree pallu half way as shown in the figure below 👇🏽

2. A to B – mark diagonally

Shoulder length plus 1 inch.

B to C – go in by 1/2 inch

C to D – mark armhole divide by 2, and give a little curve.

D to E – March off shoulder circle divide by 2 ( refer to the pic below)

Sew from E to the hem and D to the hem

If you wish to add lining, you could use the remaining Saree fabric, cut exactly the same way as pallu and attach from the neck line and the armhole.

Your cocktail dress in just 3 stitches is ready !!

Watch this video, where I explain the drafting. 

To watch the full making video

Categories
Sewing Sewing Clothes

How to Start Sewing Your Own Clothes !

If you were like me, born and brought up in a very humble middle class Indian household, then probably you have seen your mums or grand mums mending old clothes or even sewing a brand new out fits every now and then. Going to a tailor was a luxury that we could afford once or twice a year owing to Deepawali or birthdays. Those were the simple days when Indian market hadn’t know any cheap, stylish branded clothes. Tailors never had to listen to this argument – Bhaiya itne Mai to pura dress mil jaega! ( I can buy an entire dress in this amount ).

True, you can buy a dress from Zara or HnM in half the price you would spend on a meter of good quality fabric.  But those who sew know what a hand made garment means… 

If you are one of those who wish to sew your own clothes but you have never stitched anything till date, you are apprehensive, afraid and even skeptical then read on if you wish to change your mind.

I’m here to convince you sewing is easy and just anybody can sew with a little practice.

Lets try to find out how hard Is It To Make Your Own Clothes Well it’s not, Because –

  • As I mentioned earlier, Clothing industry is a labor intensive industry. Almost all the clothes are handmade by a person. Most of them do not hold any degrees. Hustle beats talent every time, so if you are willing to put in hours to practice then this skill isn’t that difficult to master.
  • You don’t need technical and academic excellence to make a clothes. Before we saw the influx of low priced fashion brands, our mums and grand mums did most of the sewing around the house.
  • Sewing is a common hobby worldwide. It is easy to find high-quality materials, patterns, and equipment at low prices.
  • You get good sewing courses every where, with formal degrees or hobby classes. And owing to pandemic many experienced dress makers and professionals have made their online courses for any one to enroll.
  • Simple Google what clothe you want to make and you will get hundreds of free DIY tutorials.. here is a list of videos that will help you get started !

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
fashion

How to Draw Fashion Figures – Faces

Fashion drawing

Fashion drawing unlike any other ‘realistic fine art genre’ is quite achievable as it does not demand to be very detail oriented. As long as you get your proportions right (which I will talk about in another blog soon) you can pretty much qualify as a fashion illustrator. 

Challenging Part of a Figure Drawing.

Firstly one needs to understand the basic idea behind making fashion drawings. Primarily fashion drawings are done to depict your design ideas on paper so that before you actually make an effort to sew them you can have a fair enough idea how they are going to look. 

Hence the emphasis is more on the Garments fall, draping, the fabric used and the details rather than the details of the fashion figure itself. It’s not meant to be very realistic in terms of the body details but as far as garment goes you can be as realistic as you want to be. I have also seen illustrations that have real pieces of fabric.

One of the most challenging part of a figure drawing however is the face. You can still get away with body not being perfect or looking a bit disproportionate but faces have expressions, they need to look balanced and human (and not aliens!). 
Having said that faces too need not be very detailed, for example you can get away with not drawing eyes or facial features all together but do get the positions and poses of the face right. It should be in sync with the body pose. You cannot have head looking backward when body is facing front (unless you are working on Gothic collection!) 

In order to achieve accurate and appropriate position of the head and face the best technique that I followed when and I initially started drawing fashion figures was by keeping a medium size ball with lines drawn as half and quarter circle. Though human face isn’t perfectly round, it’s more like an oval shape but that elongation could be added later on. 

Once you master making these round shapes you could easily fill in the lower jaw part. 

 

Here are some of the potential shapes that you can make. Try to figure out as many positions by turning the ball. 

Once you are confident making these round circles with the lines starts adding the lower part of the face, which would be slightly longer, turning this round shape into an oval one. Try to keep eye level line, nose line, lip line and chine line parallel to each other.  

Let’s try few poses – 

Once you are happy with the shapes, one of the best way to practice them and get a hang of them is by highlighting them with a black  marker pen and tracing these figures as many times as possible. Very soon you will be drawing them without any difficulty. 

Like any other art form these too require a lot of patience and practice so do keep a note pad handy and soon you will get a hang of it. 

All the best !

Kalpana Singh

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Draft a Sabyasachi Blouse Using Basic Blocks

Have a wedding coming up, yours or your best friends or even distant relative, there isn’t a girl alive who hasn’t searched  “Sabyasachi Saree Blouse” on her google, Instagram or Pinterest, whether or not she can afford it. 

Don’t we just love these dainty, feminine, classy blouses and wish we had one in our wardrobe ? The answer is yes, yes and YESSS!

If you are mumbling yes along with me then girl you are at the right page 🙌🏼

Listen learn and watch how you can use your basic blocks and create this beautiful piece of blouse for yourself, you can thanks me later (or like, share, follow, subscribe… whatever there is) 😊


Material and tools required:

  • Rulers – Straight, L, Hip curve and French curve.
  • Basic Blocks – Front and back.
  • Pattern making paper.
  • Sharp pencil and eraser.

Measurements needed:

  • Full Length of the blouse
  • Chest = divided by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Bust = divide by 4 + 1 inch
  • Waist = divide by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Chest Depth
  • Bust Depth
  • Bust Span = plus ½ inch, then divided by half
  • Side Length
  • Shoulder Length

FRONT BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – O = Bust point.

A – F and I – L = Total length of the shoulder length.

K – M = Side length of the blouse.

B – J and G – K = The cup length.

L – M = The length of the armhole.

F – J = Full length of front blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic front pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Front Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the dart.
  2. Use a straight ruler, find A (centre of the total shoulder length from F – L) mark it. Join A to O (bust point).
  3. Use a hip curve ruler to draw a slight curve from B to C and D to E. Join F (shoulder length) to C.
  4. Mark 1/2” inch inside from D to G and same for B to H. Use a french curve ruler to draw a slight curve.
  5. Mark 1/2” inch out from A (centre of the shoulder length) to I. Draw a slight curve I to O.
  6. Mark J as the length of front blouse from F to C. Draw a straight line, A to F and join to J.
  7. Use french curve ruler, draw curve from B to J and D to K.
  8. Mark the total shoulder length from I to L. Join L to M (armhole). Join M (armhole) to K (side length).
  9. Highlight A – O – H – J – F – A as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  10. Highlight I – O – G – K – M – L – I as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  11. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the front blouse:

Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).
           – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

BACK BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – B = Design of back blouse.

B – G = Side length of the blouse.

C – D = Bust point.

E – F and H – I = Total length of the shoulder length.

I – J = Neckline of back blouse.

J – A = Full length of back blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic back pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Back Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the darts.
  2. Use a straight ruler, make a straight line from B to G (same measurement as front pattern K to M) for the side length of the blouse.
  3. Use a french ruler, make a curve line from A to B (for back design of the blouse).
  4. Join a straight line from C to D (bust point). Mark E to F (same measurement as front pattern I to L) for shoulder length, then make a slight curve from F to G for armhole.
  5. Mark H to I (same measurement as front pattern A to F) for shoulder length.
  6. Join I to J for the back neckline design.
  7. Highlight B – D – C – E – F – G – B as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  8. Highlight A – D – C – H – I – J – A as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  9. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the back blouse:

  • Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).                                                            – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Overcome Your Fear of Cutting and Ruining Fabrics.

You are not alone in this. I used to almost get a panic attack when I had to cut my leather hides, yeah, you read it correctly. I was a leather design student, therefore I made leather garments. When it comes to garment manufacturing, leather is one of the most costly materials. If you’re afraid of cutting cloth, consider what it’s like to cut a valuable piece of hide on which you’ve spent your entire months budget.

Here are few tips and tricks that can help you over come those fears 🙂

1. Convince yourself that you can accomplish it.

You’ve seen a stunning style that appears to be absolutely out of this world; look at it and convince yourself you can accomplish it. Remove the notion that makes you feel inadequate.

Yes, you are just beginning out as a dress maker, and you may not be familiar with fabric, but tell yourself you can do it. You’re already on your way to successfully cutting and sewing a garment without fear if you keep a good attitude.

2. Visualize

Sewing is similar to photocopying. The way you see it is how it was probably drafted. Keeping the end result in mind can help you keep going and identify any mistakes you are making. If you don’t get it right the first time, try again. You will ultimately achieve the appropriate outcome through stitching by trial and error. When you consider how an item was cut and you have learned the fundamentals of sewing, project gets easier and easier day by day. And if you wish to ‘up’ your sewing game, pick up a good online pattern making course.

3. Practice is progress

After you’ve analysed a design and imagined how it might be cut and assembled, the following step is to practise. Instead of practising on textiles, practise on newspapers, brown papers, pattern papers, and so on.

Practice as often as possible, and begin with tiny quantities rather than huge portions. Practice makes perfect and helps you overcome any fears you may have.

When you are certain that you have mastered the art of cutting, you may progress to working with textiles. Always begin with a low-cost cloth.

4. Use pattern with seam allowance to cut your fabric.

Try to avoid the temptation of marking the measurements directly on the fabric. Use patterns, your own or ready made, that have seam allowance marked already. This will give you extra boost of confidence.

5. Smooth out your fabric and check that it is even on all sides.

When it comes to basic bodice design and cutting, your fabric is generally folded into four. Make certain that your cloth is smoothed out at each step of the folding process. Iron it if it is rumpled since little imperfections on the cloth impair your cutting .

Also, ensure that the fabric hems are even on all sides. If you’re dealing with a meter wide cloth, make sure each side is a meter long before cutting. If it is not , you can trim the extra with scissors ( perhaps mark first !)

6. Cut and Sew.

Go ahead and cut once you’ve double-checked that everything is in order. When you set your mind to it, cutting and stitching are really straightforward.

When you’ve cut everything on your inexpensive fabric, stitch it up and figure out where you went wrong and what you need to fix. Continue doing it, and you will undoubtedly improve.

Just start! It’s not as hard as it seems. Mistakes are ok, it’s just material 🙂

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Sew Girls Dresses Waist Cut Frock

To learn pattern making basics join our ONLINE PATTERN MAKING COURSE

 

MATERIALS REQUIRED

– Printed cotton fabric, approx 3.5m

MEASUREMENTS

a. Chest

b. Lengthr

c. Waist

d. Across shoulder

METHOD UPPER PART

1. From point O mark A i.e. shoulder to waist length.

2. From point O mark B which is 1/2 of across shoulder

3. From point O mark C i.e. 1/4 th of chest.

4. From point C mark point E which is 1/4th of chest +

1”

5. From point B mark F i.e. 1/36th of chest

6. Mark point H from point A i.e. 1/4 th of waist + 1″

and join HA with straight line

7. Join FO with straight line. Join HE with straight line.

8. From F mark point Y i.e. 1.5” on line FO.

9. Mark point X from point O i.e. 1/12th of chest + 1”.

10. Mark point W on centre front from point X i.e. 1.5”.

11. Mark diagonal line from point E to O.

12. Now we get point R, from point R to E make a slight

curve for arm hole and give shape as shown in

the figure.

LOWER SKIRT

1. Draw a rectangle WXZY as shown in the figure.

2. WY= 12” and WX=20”.

3. Draw 2” rectangle inside WXZY as shown.

4. Place CD on AB and EF on GH and MN on KL and OP

on QR and make pleats .

5. Similarly repeat the steps for back.

CONSTRUCTION

1. Stitch the side seams with French seam

2. Finish the hem with blind hem.

3. Concealed zipper will be attached at back .

TRIMS

1. Decorative laces and trims can be added at the

hemlines

2. Colorful buttons can be used as show buttons.

3. Colorful threads can also be used for stitching.

4. Different fabrics in the same color tone (one solid

and one printed ) can be used

 

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Sew Saree Blouse? How to Cut your Fabric using the Pattern

How to Sew Saree Blouse Patterns.

In this blog I’m explaining how to use the pdf saree blouse patterns. 

Pay attention to the instructions given on the pattern and cut accordingly. Front or back pattern will be either cut on fold or cut in 2. If it is ‘cut on fold’ you will keep the pattern at the fold of the fabric without providing any seam allowance. If it is to be ‘cut X 2′ then you will keep it away from the fold. Seam allowance for the these patterns is not provided hence you can mark your preferred SA. 3/8 inch or 1 cm allowance usually works well. At the side seams you can give 1 inch allowance in case you need to adjust the size later on.

At the sleeve hem you can give 1 inch seam allowance for folding in.

Some patterns have belts under the bust to give support. those patterns will require fusing (stiff sticky fabric) The fusing is cut in a similar way as the belt.

Some patterns have neck facing. See the blog on ‘how to sew Neckline’ for guidance.

 

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

Gathered Neck Summer Dress Tutorial

Part 1 – Create the pattern using the basic block.

Summer is approaching and if you are anything like me you probably have started pinning summer dress pics on your Pinterest board labelled dream summer wardrobe. This year I decided to upgrade my wardrobe not based on trend and fashion but based on questions like do I need this style ? How does it make me feel when I wear it ? Does it have any emotional attachment? While answering these questions I ended up getting rid of few clothes, upcycling my old favourites and sewed some fresh clothes that were comfortable, practical and made from fabric I loved and cherished.

This dress is my latest addition to my wardrobe made from much loved crinkled cotton fabric. Very simple to make and even simpler to sew.

Step 1.

Pattern Making.

Use your basic block to create this pattern. Close the waist dart (not completely as this design is quite loose at the waist) and open it at the shoulder.

Don’t have a basic block yet ? Watch this tutorial and learn how to make one.

Mark a point 1 inch below the neckline and connect it to the shoulder tip. follow the armhole curve and connect a short straight line upward.

The front pattern will be cut on fold. Follow the seam allowance marked and cut the fabric accordingly.

For the back pattern use the same pattern but cut away from the fold. Bring in the Center back slight to give a gap for tying the string.

For the skirt you will need to cut your fabric in a rectangle with length as you desire and width as waist multiply by 2, this would give you just enough gathers but if you wish to have more gathers you will need to increase the width more.

Your patterns are now ready! sundress summer dresses for women summer dresses 2021

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

Tools to get you started. Sewing Tools Hand. Sewing Machine Seam Ripper

Sewing Tools And Supplies To Get Started

In order to use ready made patterns, or making patterns from the scratch you will require a few tools and equipments. I have listed below bare minimal tools for you to get started.

Sewing machine.

Any basic model will do. I use a very inexpensive machine, and it works just fine.

Tracing paper.

Large sheets if possible for tracing the patterns.

Tape.

Used to attach tracing paper together when drafting or altering patterns.

Serger.

This machine is helpful if you plan to sew with knits. There are a couple of dresses in the book sewn from ponte, a double-knit fabric that, unlike most knits, has enough body that it can be used for fitted dresses. If you don’t have a serger, you can substitute a woven fabric that has a bit of spandex in it and use your regular machine. Or use your regular machine to sew knits using a small zigzag stitch and a ballpoint needle. Sewing machine needles. You’ 11 need universal, or basic all-purpose needles, plus a ballpoint needle for sewing knits and a variety of machine needles for light/delicate, medium-, and heavy-weight fabrics.

Invisible-zipper presser foot.

Though you can actually sew an invisible zipper effectively using a

regular zipper foot (truth be told, I often do), an invisible-zipper foot is helpful for inserting invisible zippers as it allows you to get very close to the zipper teeth. Though most machines come with a regular zipper foot, they don’t usually come with an invisible-zipper foot. You can usually buy a plastic one that works with most machines wherever invisible zippers are sold, though plastic feet are . not nearly as sturdy as metal ones. You can find a metal foot that is compatible with your particular

sewing machine online or by contacting your machine’ s manufacturer.

Hand-sewing needles.

Various sizes will allow you to baste fabrics and hand-hem skirts.

Thread.

Choose thread that matches the dominant color in your fabric. All-purpose polyester thread is the best choice for sewing dresses as it’ s strong and has a bit of flexibility in other words, it won’t break when stretched a bit.

Pins and pincushion.

I find pearl-tipped pins easier to work with, but regular pins workjust fine. Silk ‘ ‘ pins are very thin and are used for silk and other delicate fabrics.

Safety pins.

For turning small pieces, such as straps, inside out.

Good fabric shears. It is really worth spending the money for a good pair of shears and having them professionally sharpened when needed. They make cutting so much easier and more accurate. Don’t use your good shears to cut anything else! Especially paper.

Regular scissors.

Use these for cutting paper patterns.

Seam ripper.

Remove temporary basting stitches or sewing mistakes with this tool.

Yardstick Keep one on hand for measuring fabric yardage and drafting patterns.

L square or T square. Any ruler that will allow you to check right angles will also work In a pinch, you can use a piece of paper instead.

Soft tape measure.

This tool is essential for taking accurate persona! or dress-form measurements.

Armhole curve ruler, or French curve ( optional). This measures and marks armholes in bodice patterns.

Hip curve ruler

Use this to measure and mark curves for skirts.

Clear ruler

If you are altering patterns or creating a variati on of a pattern, the instructions

may call for a ruler or straightedge.

Tailor’ s chalk or chalk pencils. Transfer nonpermanent markings from the patterns to the fabric with either tool.

Dressmaker’ s pencil.

You can get a sharper, more accurate line than with chalk using these pencils.

The markings can be brushed off or removed with a damp cloth.

Steam iron.

You will frequently need an iron to press open seams.

Tailor’ s ham ( optional). This is very handy for pressing curved areas of a garment such as darts, princess seams, and the shoulders of sleeves, but a roll ed hand towel can also be used in place of this professional tool. sewing tools sewing tools hand sewing machine

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰