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Sewing Techniques

HOW TO DRAFT A SABYASACHI BLOUSE USING BASIC BLOCKS

Material and tools required:

  • Rulers – Straight, L, Hip curve and French curve.
  • Basic Blocks – Front and back.
  • Pattern making paper.
  • Sharp pencil and eraser.

Measurements needed:

  • Full Length of the blouse
  • Chest = divided by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Bust = divide by 4 + 1 inch
  • Waist = divide by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Chest Depth
  • Bust Depth
  • Bust Span = plus ½ inch, then divided by half
  • Side Length
  • Shoulder Length

FRONT BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – O = Bust point.

A – F and I – L = Total length of the shoulder length.

K – M = Side length of the blouse.

B – J and G – K = The cup length.

L – M = The length of the armhole.

F – J = Full length of front blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic front pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Front Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the dart.
  2. Use a straight ruler, find A (centre of the total shoulder length from F – L) mark it. Join A to O (bust point).
  3. Use a hip curve ruler to draw a slight curve from B to C and D to E. Join F (shoulder length) to C.
  4. Mark 1/2” inch inside from D to G and same for B to H. Use a french curve ruler to draw a slight curve.
  5. Mark 1/2” inch out from A (centre of the shoulder length) to I. Draw a slight curve I to O.
  6. Mark J as the length of front blouse from F to C. Draw a straight line, A to F and join to J.
  7. Use french curve ruler, draw curve from B to J and D to K.
  8. Mark the total shoulder length from I to L. Join L to M (armhole). Join M (armhole) to K (side length).
  9. Highlight A – O – H – J – F – A as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  10. Highlight I – O – G – K – M – L – I as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  11. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the front blouse:

Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).
           – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

BACK BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – B = Design of back blouse.

B – G = Side length of the blouse.

C – D = Bust point.

E – F and H – I = Total length of the shoulder length.

I – J = Neckline of back blouse.

J – A = Full length of back blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic back pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Back Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the darts.
  2. Use a straight ruler, make a straight line from B to G (same measurement as front pattern K to M) for the side length of the blouse.
  3. Use a french ruler, make a curve line from A to B (for back design of the blouse).
  4. Join a straight line from C to D (bust point). Mark E to F (same measurement as front pattern I to L) for shoulder length, then make a slight curve from F to G for armhole.
  5. Mark H to I (same measurement as front pattern A to F) for shoulder length.
  6. Join I to J for the back neckline design.
  7. Highlight B – D – C – E – F – G – B as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  8. Highlight A – D – C – H – I – J – A as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  9. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the back blouse:

  • Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).                                                            – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

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