Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Draft a Sabyasachi Blouse Using Basic Blocks

Have a wedding coming up, yours or your best friends or even distant relative, there isn’t a girl alive who hasn’t searched  “Sabyasachi Saree Blouse” on her google, Instagram or Pinterest, whether or not she can afford it. 

Don’t we just love these dainty, feminine, classy blouses and wish we had one in our wardrobe ? The answer is yes, yes and YESSS!

If you are mumbling yes along with me then girl you are at the right page 🙌🏼

Listen learn and watch how you can use your basic blocks and create this beautiful piece of blouse for yourself, you can thanks me later (or like, share, follow, subscribe… whatever there is) 😊


Material and tools required:

  • Rulers – Straight, L, Hip curve and French curve.
  • Basic Blocks – Front and back.
  • Pattern making paper.
  • Sharp pencil and eraser.

Measurements needed:

  • Full Length of the blouse
  • Chest = divided by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Bust = divide by 4 + 1 inch
  • Waist = divide by 4 + 1/2 inch
  • Chest Depth
  • Bust Depth
  • Bust Span = plus ½ inch, then divided by half
  • Side Length
  • Shoulder Length

FRONT BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – O = Bust point.

A – F and I – L = Total length of the shoulder length.

K – M = Side length of the blouse.

B – J and G – K = The cup length.

L – M = The length of the armhole.

F – J = Full length of front blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic front pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Front Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the dart.
  2. Use a straight ruler, find A (centre of the total shoulder length from F – L) mark it. Join A to O (bust point).
  3. Use a hip curve ruler to draw a slight curve from B to C and D to E. Join F (shoulder length) to C.
  4. Mark 1/2” inch inside from D to G and same for B to H. Use a french curve ruler to draw a slight curve.
  5. Mark 1/2” inch out from A (centre of the shoulder length) to I. Draw a slight curve I to O.
  6. Mark J as the length of front blouse from F to C. Draw a straight line, A to F and join to J.
  7. Use french curve ruler, draw curve from B to J and D to K.
  8. Mark the total shoulder length from I to L. Join L to M (armhole). Join M (armhole) to K (side length).
  9. Highlight A – O – H – J – F – A as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  10. Highlight I – O – G – K – M – L – I as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  11. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the front blouse:

Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).
           – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

BACK BLOCK

Follow the figure and understand the instructions as given below.

A – B = Design of back blouse.

B – G = Side length of the blouse.

C – D = Bust point.

E – F and H – I = Total length of the shoulder length.

I – J = Neckline of back blouse.

J – A = Full length of back blouse.

  1. First, prepare the pattern making paper and the basic back pattern with pencil, eraser and the rulers. Trace the Back Pattern using basic bodice block on the pattern making paper including the darts.
  2. Use a straight ruler, make a straight line from B to G (same measurement as front pattern K to M) for the side length of the blouse.
  3. Use a french ruler, make a curve line from A to B (for back design of the blouse).
  4. Join a straight line from C to D (bust point). Mark E to F (same measurement as front pattern I to L) for shoulder length, then make a slight curve from F to G for armhole.
  5. Mark H to I (same measurement as front pattern A to F) for shoulder length.
  6. Join I to J for the back neckline design.
  7. Highlight B – D – C – E – F – G – B as Pattern piece 1 (P1).
  8. Highlight A – D – C – H – I – J – A as Pattern piece 2 (P2).
  9. Make a string.

Pattern Pieces of the back blouse:

  • Each of the pattern pieces have to cut 4 pieces – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Main fabric for the front left and right).                                                            – 2 pieces of P1 and P2 for (Lining for the front left and right).

Sample of the Pattern Pieces of the Front Blouse after the cutting.

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰

Categories
Sewing Techniques

How to Sew Saree Blouse? How to Cut your Fabric using the Pattern

How to Sew Saree Blouse Patterns.

In this blog I’m explaining how to use the pdf saree blouse patterns. 

Pay attention to the instructions given on the pattern and cut accordingly. Front or back pattern will be either cut on fold or cut in 2. If it is ‘cut on fold’ you will keep the pattern at the fold of the fabric without providing any seam allowance. If it is to be ‘cut X 2′ then you will keep it away from the fold. Seam allowance for the these patterns is not provided hence you can mark your preferred SA. 3/8 inch or 1 cm allowance usually works well. At the side seams you can give 1 inch allowance in case you need to adjust the size later on.

At the sleeve hem you can give 1 inch seam allowance for folding in.

Some patterns have belts under the bust to give support. those patterns will require fusing (stiff sticky fabric) The fusing is cut in a similar way as the belt.

Some patterns have neck facing. See the blog on ‘how to sew Neckline’ for guidance.

 

 



Free Sewing Patterns and Resources 

If you wish to learn the art of dress making in a systematic and professional manner then Click Here

For free tutorials do follow and subscribe me on YouTube

If you wish to buy my ready made PDF patterns visit my Etsy shop 

And if you are feeling generous to follow me on Instagram then Click Here 🥰